More on the Lower Franconia Trip

As James already provided so much excellent information about our trip to Unterfranken, I'm only filling in some blanks - starting with the exciting drive to Obernburg. My brother-in-law generously let us borrow his 25-year-old Volkswagen Passat (the picture above is actually from the Internet). A true classic, this car did not have such borning conveniences as power steering, but it was a stick shift. I did the driving, and after getting used to it, I actually enjoyed the drive quite a bit! Yes, a lot of construction was going on but we were driving on Thursday and Sunday, so traffic was fairly light. And on Sundays, trucks are not allowed on the Autobahn.

Entrance to toilet at rest stop

A curious experience was the stop to use the toilet. It involved paying 70 euro cents and going through a gate - rest stop staff was available to explain the technology (many of the travellers in need of the facilities were 60+ and not tech savy). After enjoying the spotless toilet, one could redeem 50 euro cents of the fee for goods at the shop or cafeteria. However, the thought of replacing the liquid and having to pay another 70 euro cents per person was not appealing, so we pushed on and were happy to arrive at our good friend's house in Obernburg.

Fachwerkhouse and modern building

On our first day in Unterfranken, we took a trip to Aschaffenburg to be tourists and later have dinner with a friend. Aschaffenburg was the big city when I was growing up and I took bi-weekly trips by train up to the library as a teenager - the small town where we lived did not have one, and getting my book fix was a life saver.

It's still an attractive place, with a fascinating mix of old and new, as the picture above can attest. I generally enjoy this contrast of different architectures. After all, old churches and castles usually have layers upon layers of remodelling and additions. They might start gothic, then have a baroque addition, a little altar with rococo elements, then a neo-classical remodel.

We also enjoyed the fountain in front of the Stiftskirche, which was decorated with eggs and greenery.  This tradition of decorating fountains for Easter has been revived throughout Franconia.

Stiftskirche fountain

Our friend had recommended that we visit the Stiftskirche museum, and we were not disappointed. We were almost the only people there, but it was a very worthwhile visit. Starting with stone age artifacts, the museum showed pottery, jewelry, and other signs of civilization throughout the ages. Everything had been found in the surrounding areas - and, interestingly, most of the excavations had happened after I had left the area. I was truly surprised how rich the history of the area was.

On the top floor we enjoyed the Magdalenen altar. Especially interesting was that the altar could be folded up, the inner panel was made visible only on high feast days.

The Museums of Aschaffenburg website has great information about the Stiftskirche museum in German, French, and English for those who are curious or want to visit one day. 

Madgalenenaltar, Stiftsmuseum Aschaffenburg

 After spending quite a bit of time in the museum, it was time for some refreshment and we had an excellent ice cream sundae (each). It was a busy time in Aschaffenburg - our friend had already warned us that the City Race was going on. Starting in the early afternoon with the smaller children - who ran a fairly short distance - the race graduated to teenagers and adults later in the day, ending with professional athletes after dark.

Blaskapelle to encourage the runners

The atmosphere was festive, with music everywhere. Parents strolled home (or back to the car) with their slightly sweaty children, as their older brothers or sisters, or maybe the parents, were warming up. It was altogether more casual than a race in the US, and I liked the emphasis on having the kids have a good time (many splashed through a fountain where we sat, walking home wet and happy).

We had an excellent dinner with our friend and left after dark to be well rested for the next day with the class reunion.  Too bad we didn't make it into the splendid castle - maybe next time....

Schloss Johannisburg (Aschaffenburg)